Archives mensuelles : janvier 2005

Here’s a funny story about taxis in Buenos Aires, told to me by Natalia in Salta. One of her friends had a dog she loved very much, and unfortunately, it died. As you can imagine, you have to do something in these cases, and she decided to have it buried in a specially purposed cemetery. (Or was it a crematorium? Doesn’t matter!)

You might know not everyone has a car in a big city, and there was an issue on how to transport this not so little beloved best friend that passed away. Finally she found the box of the new TV set she had bought and put the corpse in it.

She went down on the street carrying the heavy box, hailed a taxi and off she went. Arriving at destination, she got out first, and the taxista accelerated right away, leaving her stranded on the sidewalk. He was very glad to have obtained a brand new TV set for free………

Salta is a city, like many on this continent, where the streets follow a grid pattern. It gives a small town feeling to a city that is much more populous than it seems. Approximately 500’000 inhabitants I think. In that sense, and also for its colonial heritage that’s been preserved, it reminds me of Merida, Yucatan (Mexico), for those who have the chance to know that city.

Therefore, nearly all streets are one-way and cross at a right angle and all “esquinas” can look somewhat identical. What is special is that some have traffic lights and others don’t. Why here and not there, I’ve really no idea! And when there’s no traffic light, the car coming from the right is supposed to have priority, but usually, it’s the biggest or the fastest that gets through! I wonder how many accidents there are at these crossings but I haven’t seen one yet! Amazing.

As you might know, the Argentine Peso used to be linked to the US Dollar, at a 1:1 exchange rate. After the events of Christmas 2001 you might still recall, it was devaluated to a 3:1 exchange rate. Now that the Dollar is so weak, the Peso to Euro exchange rate is now 4:1… Which makes it even cheaper for European travellers, and even more expensive for the few Argentines who could think about travelling to Europe. They might wish their currency was pegged to the Euro!

Anyway, this has lead to a huge development of tourism, which can especially be seen in Salta, where you can feel a lot of dynamism. The central Plaza 9 de Julio has been partly pedestrianised, the magnificient cathedral has been repainted, and so on. I only hope this increase will stabilise for a while and that the city won’t lose its soul. And for that I do trust the Salteà±os.

I was wondering how I was going to fit a return to Salta in my trip, in order to see Federico and his family, who welcomed me in such a way last time I was there. I managed to find a flight for 2 days and I so much don’t regret it. It’s just really too short but I’m making the most of it before discovering parts of Argentina I do not know yet. After the mourning days in Buenos Aires, I’m living again!

Really, everybody I meet here is lovely. This is Argentina at its best. As for last time, I’ve been welcomed better than I could have imagined in my dreams. Today, we went walking in the hills above Salta with my friend Federico and two friends of him. A good laugh, a very hot day, climbing and drinking “mate” after my latest Monday evening in a bar ever. Or should I say Tuesday morning. We stayed outside, the temperature was really perfect, slightly cooler than in Buenos Aires.

Another day to come tomorrow, I’m really looking forward to it.

Three days of mourning, that’s long, although I do understand and respect the need to honour the people who died at that concert.

Three days. Especially at this period of the year when most museums are closed. Mourning means no dancing, no cinema, no theatre. That leaves nothing much more to do than walking around in the heat. I went to San Telmo today, but even the Tango dancers weren’t there. Duelo nacional.
I’ve just learnt that dance clubs will be closed for another fortnight for inspection. If only that would make things change, but most people just don’t believe it.

I tried to find some salsa classes, but even such activities were forbidden by the police, and controls were made. This leads to a heavy atmosphere, making me happy to leave tomorrow this city I really do like. But not at these times. I’m thinking of adapting my plans, and adding a few days here in Buenos Aires before I leave, in order to enjoy the city in a more pleasant atmosphere.

The heat (35 degrees C) doesn’t lighten things up, and although it’s nice not to have to wear a sweater at night when going out (well… if the “boliches” – the clubs – were open!), 28 degrees C on Florida Street at 11 p.m. is a bit too much when there’s nothing to do in the evenings but sleep.

Three days of national mourning here after this local tragedy. Nearly no clubs were open for the new year, celebrations were reduced to the minimum. Like in other parts of the world, but for different reasons in addition.

I went to visit friends in the Provincia, it was really nice. Great change to eat the new year meal with 25 degrees Celsius in the garden.

The atmosphere is undoubtebly a bit heavy, special and empty but you have to understand. Target today: find something open to visit.